Negombo is quintessential Sri Lanka. Situated on the western coast of the country and about 40 km away from the capital, Colombo, Negombo is steeped in the history, culture and traditions that constitute the basic characteristics of the island nation. It had seen invasions, conquests and flourishes of international commerce that had become unmistakable hallmarks of its history: Like other centers in colonized Asian countries, Negombo had witnessed the arrival of the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British and, obviously, their departure.

As I wander along the shores of the stunning Negombo Lagoon, one of Sri Lanka's top ecotourism spots, I can’t help but reflect on the rich history that unfolded here. The lagoon, which flows into the Indian Ocean through a narrow channel at its northern end, has witnessed countless stories over the years, adding a sense of mystery and wonder to its already breathtaking beauty.

Negombo today is a modern city that still keeps all its traditional habits and glories intact and is now a key Sri Lankan port city along with the likes of Colombo and Galle. I am convinced that the first thing any visitor – local, national or international – would want to see and explore is the Negombo Lagoon, a semi-enclosed, pristine water body with about 35 SqKm of surface area that has served throughout history and continues to serve as a haven for seafaring vessels even today.

The lagoon served as the point of origin for ships that carried away locally grown cinnamon into faraway lands, a commodity that had perhaps been the main reason behind the invasion by the Portuguese, whom the Dutch later drove away. 

Several small rivers and canals, including the well-known Hamilton Canal—also called the Dutch Canal—flow into the Negombo Lagoon. It's no exaggeration to say that this vibrant turquoise gem is a must-see on any trip to Sri Lanka.

Sailing on the Hamilton Canal and entering the Negombo Lagoon to explore, which has always been a pleasure for me, is an entrancing experience that captivates you with the rich flora and fauna of a unique lagoon and marsh ecosystem. The lagoon, though only a few meters deep, is famous for its rich, flourishing biodiversity, which accounts for its ecotourism. I used to frequent the lagoon to watch the many animal and bird species including monitor lizards, crocodiles and exotic migratory birds. 

The Hamilton Canal was designed to drain saltwater out of the wetlands of Muthurajawela. It also facilitates transport to the port. It has been a favorite pastime whenever I am in Negombo to go walking or biking along the paths beside the canal. It offers a perfect opportunity to take in the charming sights of the small villages and diverse Muthurajawela wetland ecosystem that has herons, cormorants, kingfishers, lapwings, etc., along with birds of prey such as kites and sea eagles.

Negombo Lagoon is surrounded by some of the most vibrant fish markets in Sri Lanka and remains an area any visitor to the island nation must visit for the best native seafood. The fish markets in the Negombo Lagoon area offer authentic mouthwatering Sri Lankan seafood like rock lobsters, blue crabs, oysters, and various fish delicacies. I am a lover of spicy seafood, and it is here I come whenever I am in the mood to savor my country’s authentic seafood. 

The picturesque Negombo Beach has always been one of the spots that I have never wanted to miss on my frequent trips. It was one spot where I used to come to spend evenings almost every day when I was living here. 

The coast is a vast expanse of golden sandy shore that gently slopes down into the mighty but mostly calm expanse of the Indian Ocean. Do whatever beach activity you want to do: Sunbathe, kitesurf or windsurf. Negombo Beach is ideal for all that. The strong winds in Negombo make it ideal for kite flying, and one could often see locals and tourists flying handmade kites, which are available at local shops.

One of the aspects I like most about Negombo is its modern history captured in the widespread historic landmarks and pieces of evidence of a momentous history. The Negombo Fort, also known as the Dutch Fort, is among the most sought-after sites. 

The fort, right in the heart of Negombo town, was initially constructed in the Seventeenth Century by the Portuguese who invaded Sri Lanka in 1588. The Dutch, who arrived later, seized the fort from the Portuguese in 1640. The Portuguese reoccupied it in the same year. However, the Dutch recaptured the fort in 1644. Since the fort suffered severe damage during the captures and recaptures, it was rebuilt in 1672 according to a pentagonal pattern. In 1796, the British occupied the fort without opposition.

Justifiably, the architecture of the fort – especially its clock tower, the rampart, and the bastions – shows influences of Dutch and Portuguese construction styles. However, after its capture by the British, it was almost demolished to build a prison, which continues to be in use even today. While much of the original fortifications have disappeared, parts of the fortified walls and the entrance structures remain intact, serving as reminders of Negombo’s history of invasions, occupations, conquests and defeats.

Just as any colonized city, Negombo’s history of invasions, occupations, conquests and defeats has also brought in cultural transitions and amalgamations, and the period of Portuguese domination had seen large-scale conversion of the local seafaring clans into Catholicism from Buddhism and Hinduism. This history is reflected in the fact that nearly 65% of today’s Negombo population is Catholic, earning it the nickname - Little Rome. This fact is also one of the reasons for the immense popularity enjoyed by the stunningly beautiful St Mary’s Church located in the heart of Negombo.

Whenever I pass through Negombo, by chance or by choice, I make it a point to visit this 140-year-old church, one of the largest cathedrals in Sri Lanka, not for religious reasons but because of its cultural significance in the history and sociology of the port city and its surroundings and more importantly because of its architectural splendor. St Mary’s Church is a mesmerizing building with cream-yellow walls and black and white marble detail. One of its greatest attractions is a famous painting of Christ that NS Godamanne, a Buddhist painter, did. It is also known for its magnificent church organ and stained-glass windows. The church, referred to locally as the Maha Veediya Palliya, rises above all other buildings in Negombo.

The architecture of the church would fascinate anyone. I have always felt that its large, colorful doors, beautiful sculptures and intricate paintings are spellbinding. One of the altars in the church where offerings are made was imported from Europe. The inside walls have alabaster images of many saints. The church’s construction seems to have drawn architectural inspiration from the neoclassical movement. Believers say it gives an indescribable spiritual feeling to attend mass at the church beneath the beautifully decorated ceiling with morning light seeping in through the stained-glass windows with several statuettes, ceiling paintings, and magnificent gold and red statues of angels ‘looking on’.

Negombo is also known for its temples, and the Angurukaramulla Temple is one of the most famous of them in the area. It is popular for its statue of Buddha and its magnificent dragon entrance. To enter the temple, one has to pass through the dragon’s mouth. This is believed to help the devotee get rid of evil spirits. The temple has 300-year-old ruins of an ancient library. It also has many murals, paintings on the ceiling, and intricate sculptures that portray the journey of Buddha towards enlightenment.

Despite the beauty that Negombo, just two meters above sea level, radiates on sunny days and during golden evenings, I have always preferred to experience it during the rains, when its tropical rainforest climate truly comes alive: It gives one an out-of-the-world feeling as the city, the lagoon, the beaches, the fishing villages and the markets lay shrouded in the transparent veil of water falling incessantly from the heavens.

 Standing on the wet sand and the brink of the long line of wind-shaken palm trees at the mouth of the Negombo Lagoon, I would see in my mind’s eye those giant wooden ships of the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British sailing away towards the west carrying tons and tons of cinnamon grown in Negombo and its surroundings. I would then have this feeling that the beach and the rain-enriched humid air were still filled with that irresistible, delicate aroma that cinnamon alone could have.