Louis Vuitton: The Soft Power of Femininity

In the grand finale of Paris Fashion Week, Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 collection captivated audiences with a celebration of "soft power." It was an exploration of femininity’s enduring strength, inspired by the Parisienne women of the 1890s who wielded charm and fashion as tools of influence.

The collection opened with a striking silhouette reminiscent of the Belle Époque era—exaggerated leg-o-mutton sleeves, cinched waists, and rounded hips. These shapes harkened back to the time when Louis Vuitton first introduced its iconic monogram in 1894, a period when Paris was the undisputed fashion capital of the world. Yet, Ghesquière stripped these historical silhouettes of their rigidity, infusing them with a modern suppleness that emphasized movement and ease.

The runway itself became a symbol of Louis Vuitton’s legacy of travel and movement. Models strode down a patchwork catwalk inspired by Vuitton’s iconic trunks, which ascended dramatically, lifting the first model skyward. It was a nod to the brand’s ethos of transformation and the journey of fashion across eras.

Ghesquière described the collection as an ode to "soft power," a term that resonated both in the physical construction of the garments and in their deeper narrative. His team challenged conventional tailoring, imbuing structured pieces with fluidity and lending unexpected rigidity to flowing forms.

This concept extended to the archetype of the Parisienne femme fatale—a figure immortalized in literature by authors like Émile Zola and Marcel Proust. These women used their allure as armor, manipulating the world around them. Ghesquière translated this idea into designs that were both empowering and sensual, creating garments that moved with the wearer yet commanded attention.

The collection transitioned from historical references to a celebration of modernity. Glittering shredded skirts, disco-ball handbags, and a soundtrack of disco beats brought a playful energy to the finale. Ghesquière reminded us that even in turbulent times—"on the lip of the volcano," as he phrased it—fashion can be a source of joy and defiance.

Chanel: A Legacy That Endures

Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was nothing short of a masterclass in brand legacy. With the house currently without a creative director, the design team delivered a collection that was a testament to Chanel’s timeless DNA.

Set in the Grand Palais, a space synonymous with Chanel’s grandest shows, the collection paid homage to both Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld. The venue itself, with its gilded arches and expansive nave, underscored Chanel’s cultural capital, which remains unmatched in the fashion world.

The design team leaned heavily on Chanel’s extensive archives, reviving pieces like a feathered dress from the Spring/Summer 1939 collection. This historic piece was reinterpreted for modern audiences, showcasing Chanel’s ability to remain relevant across decades.

Bird imagery took center stage, a nod to Chanel’s nickname "Coco," derived from a cabaret song where she impersonated a rooster’s crow. Riley Keough, Elvis Presley’s granddaughter, embodied this theme, swinging on a gilded perch and singing When Doves Cry. The symbolism of freedom, flight, and elegance was woven into the collection’s aesthetic, from feather motifs to light, billowing chiffons.

Classic Chanel elements were present in abundance: tweeds, pearls, and bows. Yet, they were given a contemporary twist. Tweeds came in vibrant "Candy Crush" hues, juxtaposed with denim—a scandalous combination first introduced by Lagerfeld in the 1990s. Two-tone shoes were elevated with platform heels, reminiscent of Lagerfeld’s iconic Minnie Mouse designs.

The collection wasn’t just a tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s innovations but also to Lagerfeld’s transformative vision. Lagerfeld often spoke of Chanel’s 1930s designs as his favorites, and his influence was evident in the silhouettes and styling. The result was a seamless blend of Chanel’s past and present, a reminder of its enduring relevance.

The show concluded with a sense of anticipation for the house’s future. While the question of "Who’s next?" loomed large, Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection proved that its legacy is strong enough to weather transitions.

Balenciaga: Transforming the Ordinary

Demna’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Balenciaga was a daring exploration of fashion as an art form. Known for his subversive approach, Demna once again challenged conventions, transforming mundane garments into extraordinary statements.

The runway was a spectacle in itself, stretching several hundred feet and lined with a mix of A-listers and eccentric figures, including an actor wearing prosthetics to resemble Jack Nicholson. This surreal setting perfectly complemented the collection, where appearances were often deceiving.

Demna described the collection as "a tribute to fashion that has a point of view," and it delivered on that promise. Everyday pieces like tea dresses and jean jackets were deconstructed and reimagined. Backs were slashed open and loosely laced, exposing glimpses of skin. Bomber jackets were given the voluminous silhouette of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s iconic cocoon coats.

Jeans were perhaps the most radical element. Some were slung so low they defied gravity, while others were transformed into high collars inspired by the Medici. The collection also featured lingerie-inspired pieces that covered the body from head to toe, stripping them of their sensual connotations and imbuing them with a sense of irony.

Demna’s experimental approach extended to technical innovation. Coats were wrapped around the body to create bustle-backed gowns, and jackets were inverted to serve as dresses. The collection celebrated the transformative potential of fashion, where even the most ordinary items could be elevated into works of art.

This boundary-pushing ethos reminded audiences of why Balenciaga remains at the forefront of avant-garde fashion. Demna’s vision was a call to embrace creativity and rediscover the joy of experimentation in an industry often constrained by commercial pressures.

Spring/Summer 2025 was a season defined by reinvention and storytelling. Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Balenciaga each presented collections that were deeply rooted in their brand identities yet boldly forward-thinking. Together, these collections reminded us of fashion’s ability to transcend the ordinary, to tell stories, and to inspire. As we look ahead to Spring/Summer 2025, these brands have set a high bar, showcasing the transformative power of creativity in an ever-changing world.